The Beginning of a Beautiful Friendship.

Saturday

The day was upon us. The most awaited part of the trip. “Don’t buy that here, wait until we’re in Fes! All the Moroccan goods are made in Fes. We’ll have time to shop in Fes.” Fes is the oldest city in Morocco. It’s 1000 years older than the United States. The neighborhoods are identified by what CENTURY they were built in. 

We woke up early in the morning to go and see a panorama of Fes. (Fes is the city; fez is the hat.) it was big and compact. Such a different concept coming from the spread out cities of the States. We immediately drove to a ceramics place. We saw the whole process from mud to table (they legitimately made table tops). The mud had cat prints in it. The artists there start as apprentices and move up in this field. We saw amazing creations: mezuzahs, plates, bowls, tables, and so many fountains. They make ceramics and pottery along with tiles to create mosaics. And the style was so colorful and fun. We had fun in the store at the end. We left and entered the actual city. We wound through narrow streets six inches wider than me. We darted through markets and squeezed to the side when donkeys passed. Different areas had different markets: we passed produce and meat (including shark), clothing, technology, cooking ware, and more. We stopped and looked at mosques and a religious school. We looked at the courtyard and old dormitories. We gazed at the details in the wood and tiles. 

Next we went to a jeweler. Silver is mined in Morocco along with other precious gems. He showed us necklaces and earrings. There were mirrors all around, plus some daggers, a cane, teapots, and other decor. It was a two floor shop, but very crowded. I bought my items and tried to stay out of the way. It was hard with people in front of me and breakable things behind me. I do have a reputation of being clumsy. It didn’t help when a SECOND group joined us in the shop. I honestly started having a minor panic attack. Ad asked us how we were doing with thumbs up; I put mine to the side. He grabbed my arm and we weaved through the shop to the entrance. We stood outside for me to calm and catch my breath. He explained that they’re used to being on top of each other, but he understands that in America we’re so spread out. Having someone in our personal space is uncomfortable. He took a smoke break while I drank water and dried my tears. Soon, everyone else was done and we set off for lunch. A Fes-specific food is pastilla. It’s like a pot pie, but phyllo dough. Savory on the inside with chicken and vegetables and sweet on the outside with cinnamon and powdered sugar. Oh we ALL loved that. It was so filling along with the appetizers. I’m hungry just thinking about it. It was a great break before we continued on. 

We weaved through the city and made our way to a ruggery. Or a place where they make rugs. I don’t really know what to call that. They showed us different designs and styles. Traditional vs modern. They told us about the craft and how long they take. It’s an arduous process, but a beautiful result. I ended up buying two: a runner for my kitchen and one for my entryway. We joked that it was “Say Yes to the Rug” with all my friends with me in the alcove helping me choose. They packaged them up tight and delivered them to the bus. Next, was a weaving place where they made cloth and fabrics. I learned that they use agave silk in their cloth. We watched a man work at the loom. We wandered and bought scarves, tried on fezes, and some even bought kaftans. It was a beautiful store (Ad checked on me here as well. I was fading again. He took me into an alcove outside where I was safe to sit and wait for the group.) We wove our way through the streets, past children trying to sell us wallets or figurines, men selling shoes, and regular beggars. We arrived at the tannery, our last stop. Oh how that place SMELLED. They gave us a mint sprig as we walked in and I wondered why. We walked through rooms where jackets and floor poofs were, but he led us to the top. There the smell was the strongest. We could see the open vats next door. Half were white, full of pigeon poop we soon learned. The others had dye for different colors and water and other processing steps. Interesting, but stinky. Others wandered, looking at wares, but I was exhausted. Found my friend Sarah falling in love with a green leather jacket. Damn, she looked great. We had to bargain down the jacket and he threw in a pair of shoes. Those became mine! I paid her do she didn’t feel as guilty about the jacket. It was a great purchase and something that will last. My shoes are now my go to slip-ons when I leave the house. Not originally my style, but I’m warming up to them.

We left the city and headed to a traditional hammam. We were close before, but we got a whole lot closer after this experience. It was a spa with a sauna, a cold tub, washing of hair, scrubbing with sand, and a massage. It felt amazing. I was comfortable during the whole time, but many of the other women weren’t. We were completely undressed. It was difficult to communicate to the staff because I did not speak French and they did not speak English. I almost fell asleep on the massage table. It was chaotic with over 20 women and a dozen employees, but we all were treated. I felt so good. We went back to the hotel and those of us who were skipping the night out stayed in and ordered room service. That was the first time I’ve ever ordered room service. I got a 4 cheese pizza and an Oreo milkshake. The pizza reminded me of skating rink pizza, just with better cheese. The milkshake was more liquidy and tasted like banana. To avoid that, I ended up chugging it. Both were $11. Where else can you get that cheap of room service?

Sunday- the last day

On our way out of Fes, we stopped at the royal palace of Fes. There they have infamous seven doors, each decorated slightly differently. We left Fes and headed for the coast. We made a very American stop: McDonald’s! Ad wanted us to experience their version, how they do it. I got a tasty chicken sandwich, fries, and a coke. The sandwich was so big. The fries weren’t as salty. Or as crispy. They also offered steak fries, jalapeño poppers, and Gouda bites. The chicken nuggets were full on real chicken! It was an experience. Definitely different than what we had eaten all week (almost was a preparation for the more processed foods back here in the States). We drove through Rabat, the capital, and saw the soon-to-be tallest tower in Morocco. We went to the king’s palace there, saw some government buildings. The city is mostly government centered; not a lot for tourists to do.

Last stop: Casablanca! We first stopped at a fountain to wander and take pictures with a giant, colorful sign. There was a rip-off Mickey Mouse mascot taking pictures with kids. We walked from there to a store for us to buy our final souvenirs. Some went across the street for the last coffee. Our only altercation happened that day. A local crazy person wouldn’t leave our group alone. At one point, he blocked our way to the bus. The bus driver was no where to be found. Locals tried walking him away, but he would return a few minutes later. He even grabbed onto one of our lady’s sweater. It was a bit nerve wracking. We got to the hotel and decompressed. It was time to figure out how to repack everything. I had a rolling suitcase, carry on bag, my rugs, and my medical bag. How could I fit everything in its respective place? We still had our goodbye dinner as well.

Of course, you can’t end your time in Casablanca without a reference to the movie. We ate dinner at Rick’s Cafe. The decor was very 40s. There was an area for a band downstairs. Waiters were in vests and fezes. And we had a several course meal. We also met Ad’s wife! She was so pretty; they’re a good looking couple. The menu is in my album on Facebook. It was yummy, refreshing, and an all around good time. We left and went to the mosque, the only one that allows anyone in. It was too late, so we couldn’t go inside, but we took pictures outside. We were there for the last prayer of the night. We took our last group picture and I had some with my roomie, Isi. We got back to the hotel and hugged and tipped our driver Mohcine and Adnane. A few tears were shed. We went up to our rooms, where we packed, napped, played games, or spent the last of our time together.

We got on the bus at 3:15 am. Our flight to Paris (which most of us were on) left at 7:30am. From there we split into our respective home flights. Six of us were on the Chicago flight. I slept maybe 4 hours. We got down and I had an hour to get through customs, go to another terminal, go through security, and make my flight. I was one of the last three on. I wouldn’t have made it if I didn’t skip the customs line to catch up with the others who had one more flight. Nor would I have caught it if I stopped to pick up my checked bags to recheck them. I wanted to get home. I got back at 7:45ish, reported missing bags, and went home. 24 hours. 4 airports. 4 time zones (that I was on the ground). 4 hours of sleep. Finally home.

Present: 30 Sept

It’s been 11 days since we’ve been separated. Our group chat stays active on a daily basis. First because of Covid testing, but now with future travels together. Out of the 29 of us, 17 have signed up for Egypt 2024. Yalla!

Deserts, Devonians, and Dromedaries

Thursday was my favorite day of the trip. We woke up and went to see fossils (dundundun *Phineas and Ferb reference)! It was so cool to hear about how the desert used to be underwater. There are cephalopod and fish and jellyfish fossils all over the Erfoud area. We saw how they clean the pieces, how they break them open, and sometimes how they cut partitions to see what the inside looks like. Most of these pieces are in marble, so they showed us fixtures that they make with this material: tables, sinks, and art. They gave us 50% off their store and we went crazy. I was very happy to buy some dishes (not for eating) and decorations made with these fossils.

Spending all that time on the bus we had a DJ playing requests. Rock the Kashbah and Africa were givens. Bohemian Rhapsody and Don’t Stop Me Now by Queen were hits. So were Super Troopers and Mama Mia by ABBA. Other singalongs were Unwritten, Pocketful of Sunshine, Misery Business, Best Damn Thing, I Will Survive, and Dreams. The back of the bus had a great time. 

We drove to Rissani and saw the Ksar El Fida. It used to be a palace. We stopped at a desert oasis for pictures. Children were getting out of school and stopped us. They stood with their bikes watching us be silly and then board the bus. It was an interesting reverse tourism experience. We came back to the hotel for lunch and a rest.

We had to rest up for the next experiences. Later afternoon our group left in SUVs to go to the desert. We joked we were in a government caravan. We soon went off road and were racing around and on dunes. We even traveled 90 mph. Our car felt more like an amusement ride than a car. A few times my butt caught air I.e. I lifted off the car seat. Don’t worry; we were all wearing seatbelts. We twisted and turned and we’re thrown against each other. Our car was full of giggles. Meg, Maria, Nadine, and I were in the same car. The driver even put on a playlist called Music for Americans, which included pop songs from the past decade. He didn’t speak English.

We first stopped at a nomad’s tent. This lifestyle is going out because of the modern world. No one is willing to buy things from people that take camels or donkeys to travel. They’d rather have it delivered by car or plane. More and more children leave and live permanently in houses. We looked around their tent and shacks. We were invited inside the big tent for tea. They had such warm hospitality. We were grateful for the experience. 

Next desert travel was to see musicians. These played on traditional Berber instruments and sang old songs. We drank tea and danced to the music. We gave them coins and quickly left for our next appointment. Thirty minutes before sunset, we met them: the 30 camels to take us into the Sahara. We each had our own dromedary. I was paired with Nadine. We rode up several dunes with our guide. He stopped often and took pictures with our phones of us and the camels. We settled our camels with others and climbed what felt like a GIANT dune and got close to our group. Nadine and I were huffing at the top. I could only whisper because I was parched. We watched the sunset. More pictures and videos were taken. We got back to the camels and bought tiny jars and filled them with the Sahara. We rode back to our cars. They were parked at a building with a courtyard. There was a bonfire and music (and of course, mint tea). I started dancing and had so much fun. The other Sarah joined the musicians on a drum. More people joined in on the dancing and it was so much fun. We made one last stop on the way home. In the middle of the desert, in the darkness of night, we saw millions of stars. The Big Dipper was huge and near the horizon. We saw Jupiter as well. It was an amazing time feeling so big and so small at the same time.

Now for some real talk. People are human. Humans get sick. Some humans are sick/disabled all the time. These things suck more when you’re in a foreign country, ESPECIALLY when you don’t speak the language(s) spoken there. Some women (~10) got their period on the trip. I got a cold/allergies with each day having a different symptom: sore throat, excess mucus/sneezing, congestion, coughing. Not fun and I felt like I was disturbing people. As you know, I also have mental problems. I had an anxiety attack Thursday night. I was overstimulated and needed to be by myself and I couldn’t. It was bottling up and I was close to exploding. I quickly ate dinner and then excused myself. I started crying on my way to my room and just cried for five minutes getting out all the feelings. It was a long, hot day and I was over it. I could hear a party going on outside. It was Tina and Mochine’s birthday. They had a band, cake, and dancing. I heard the next day that people jumped in the pool. It sounded like fun. But I was inside writing my previous post, enjoying my alone time. I was truly happy for my friends that night and I didn’t have FOMO. That party wasn’t right for me. Spoiler alert: I had an attack in Fes as well, but a small one. Ad helped me there. I was otherwise enjoying myself and the company of fellow travelers.

Friday

We drove to Fes with small stops along the way. We started with a camel farm. There were three mothers and three babies. I got to drink camel’s milk! I liked it more than cow’s milk. Sarah found a drum and played while people took pictures of the farm. We drove through Midelt where apples grow. They have a red apple on the west side and a green apple on the east side. We stopped a a place Ad called Little Switzerland. The buildings were definitely European and it has one of the first ski lifts ever. At lunch I had a Pepsi with an old pop top. I had never seen one before in person. I ate pasta carbonara, but two people at my table had camel tajine. They said it was delicious and comparable to pot roast. 

We drove through the Atlas Mountains and started seeing cedar trees. Some of these trees had monkeys! We made a stop to see Macaques. Ad threw fruit near them. There was a decorated Berber horse and Isi rode it like a Queen. As we got closer to Fes, the land reminded me of Italy. How the houses looked, how the fields were lined. The drastic comparison from the day before of the orange Sahara sand. We got to Hotel Escale and checked in. The restaurant was on the roof. We had a buffet. ISI’s and my room was a corner room with a balcony. It was niiiiice. 

Side story: Slowly our showers got their walls back. Only one shower had a curtain. The rest have been partially walled off and you’re lucky if there’s a lip keeping the water in. Many bathrooms have been soaked after we showered. These also had removable heads which aren’t as commonly used in the US, or if people have them, they don’t remove them as much. If I hadn’t locked the door, people would’ve walked into the bathroom and immediately seen me in the shower. The following day was they hyped up day: our day in Fes. 

Happy birthday to me

This was to be posted on September 10. Due to internet/data issues, it’s just now being posted.

 I have been 28 for a day and what an adventure it has been. I flew last night from Detroit to Paris. I got three hours of sleep. After a two hour layover flew from there to Marrakech (Mare-uh-kesh). 1.5 hours of sleep. Landed and met up with 10 other travelers on my flight. We got through customs, met up with our tour director Ad (Adnane), and got to the hotel. We debriefed the schedule for the night, freshened up, and left the hotel.

Our poor first bus driver had a death in the family so we had to get a replacement. We didn’t get to dinner until 45 minutes after we were supposed to. We had a blood orange drink on the rooftop and looked at a market. We went downstairs in a courtyard and had our meal. The other Sarah and I got a bottle of wine. For someone who doesn’t like wine, I drank half the bottle. I was thirsty! We got 3L of water to split between 7 people. I sat with Sarah, Ken, Krystal, Amber, Kylie, and Shailja. We had salads for a first course: tomato (pico de gallo), aubergine, zucchini, cucumbers (nope), potatoes, and tomatoes with sweet peppers. We had a whole discussion how cucumbers are melons but aren’t considered fruits. How physically they look like zucchini, but aren’t in the same family (lagomorphs?) We had two big dishes of meat: tender beef with plums and almonds and chicken with olives and lemons. The lemons were so tart and mistaken for olives with the vinegary flavor. And of course bread. We had oranges and dates, pancakes with sweet syrup, and biscuits/cookies for dessert. One table gave me some white wine (which is what Sarah and I wanted in the first place). We left full and happy. 

We then wandered/followed our guide through the busy market. It was almost 11pm and so full of people and foods and things and music. It was overwhelming, but interesting. We’ll see the difference of night and day tomorrow. 

It’s time to sleep. I’m rooming with Ighwiyisi. I think she goes by Yisi. I’ll get the spelling tomorrow. We gratefully are starting later (10am) and are having a day to learn all about Marra

Where’s Atlas?

 Writing this days later is terrible because everyday is starting to blend. It feels like we’ve been here a month even though our trip is about to end. Morocco is beautiful. Everyone is kind. Everything has been acceptable (not perfect. T.I.A. This is Africa)

Tuesday morning we left Marrakesh and headed towards Ouarzazate. To get there, we traveled through the Atlas Mountains. It became an inside joke between me and the other Sarah of “Where’s Atlas?” And every stop we’d name a different thing Atlas. The first stop was a cat. Next was a dog. Maybe a donkey was named Atlas. We stopped at several oases (plural of oasis) to see the palm trees. We stopped for panoramic views and warded off merchants peddling goods.

We left at 9:30; we ate lunch at about 3. We stopped at Ait-Ben-Haddou. That’s a famous place where so many movies were filmed (most of which I haven’t seen like Gladiator and Kingdom of Heaven). The village next to river was built in the 14th century. They had 5 kasbahs, places where caravans could stop and rest. It’s an official UNESCO site and is preserved to stay the way it was built. That means no running water or electricity. We crossed a river that looked dry, but was muddy in the middle. We were slipping and sliding all over. Ad said it had never been that way before; it was always dry before. I guess it had recently rained. 

In the theme of films, we past CLA studios, the third largest film industry in the world. If there’s a desert scene, people and movies come here to film. Adnane kept referencing Jason Momoa. Maybe Aquaman 2?

We stayed at a beautiful hotel. We were all excited to get in the pool and it was FREEZING! I walked around the shallow end after 45 minutes of slowly submerging myself. There was a great view of the surrounding area. We had a meal in the hotel restaurant for dinner then proceeded to celebrate ANOTHER traveler’s birthday. We ate cake, sang, and danced. Such a great way to end the day. 

Wednesday

We continued traveling through the Atlas Mountains, this time in the lower parts. We headed to Arfoud. We saw the Rose Valley (Desert Rose by Sting was hummed), Fig Oasis, and Oasis of Tinghir. 

We made a special, unscheduled stop. We participated in a tea ceremony at an imam’s house with his wife. We sat on the floor and watched her make the ubiquitous mint tea. It was delightful. Afterwards, two randomly selected travelers were chosen to make it. That batch was even sweeter. I’m going to have to buy some and take it home with me. We ate lunch soon after. Lots of bread, olives, and skewered meat. Fruit is a common dessert: oranges with cinnamon, apples, bananas, grapes, and melon. 

We were met with laughter when we got on the bus and one of the women imitated Adnane. She even put on his striped bucket hat! When he got the mic back, he just did a mic drop. We drove away from our destination to see the Todra Gorges. They were gorge-ous (I had to do it. The pun was just there, ready to be said). Coincidentally, my dress matched the sides of limestone. The stream was cold and had different colored rocks. Merchants were peddling kaftans, scarves, jewelry, and more down in the gorge. To get there, we drove around the luscious Oasis of Tinghir. It was so beautiful. 

Through the last oasis we stopped and were gifted a box of dates by the driver’s friend. It was so good; sweet with the texture of icing. We arrived at the hotel, settled until dinner at 8:30. This hotel is outside of Erfoud, far enough to make it feel like the middle of nowhere. Because we’re closer to the Sahara, sand is everywhere. We’re blaming the weird coloring of the pool to the sand; we can’t see the bottom it’s so opaque. Our group had some issues at this hotel with stinky rooms, ants, no/just dripping water, and no A/C. Ad is amazing and fixes them as quickly as he can. People were moved as soon as they complained. Hump day was over and so was half our trip

‎هيا بنا let’s go

Sunday we walked around Marrakech. We were dropped off at a garden surrounding the tallest mosque in Marrakech. Every building is shorter than this mosque, no taller than 5 stories. We took a group photo at the fountain with the water men. These men had triangular hats with baubles which matched their kaftans. They were brightly colored. They traditionally gave water to those who wanted it for a few. They are covered with little gold bowls and have a goatskin filled with water. They are really only for tourists now with the rise of water bottles. 

Speaking of water, they charge you at every restaurant. With the difference of countries we were recommended to drink water bottles vs tap water. Many of us buy 1L to fill up the 0.5L bottles that we buy. Some men have bought 6 packs for the whole trip. It is a necessity with the heat and the walking. 

After pictures with the mosque, gardens, and watermen, we walked to the Bahia Palace. It isn’t decorated like a European castle; the rooms are all empty. It gave space to look at all the craftsmanship of the ceilings, walls, and floors. Such beautiful photo opportunities. We learned about the history of the kings that lived there and the French who set up offices there a hundred years ago. I hope to come back and see the grand courtyard.

We were tired and thirsty after that. Water break provided by Ad! We walked to a pharmacy/herbalist next. Oh the smells and the products. Morocco has native argan trees, so many of their products contained a higher concentration of oils than sold in the US. There were products for everything: asthma, snoring, allergies, rosacea, acne, hair loss, stress, concentration, moisturizer, anti-aging, and more (including libido). Afterwards it was almost like an auction. They gave us big baskets to put our products in and they called out the different options for us to wave our hands. Many of us spent hundreds of dollars on these products justifying “we can only get this in Morocco/it’s part of the experience!”

Afterwards we were starving and went to a restaurant called Kabana. Very good food, delicious mocktail, and a fun atmosphere. We sat on the roof (but under a covering) and several women wandered around to take photos. I ordered lamb and ricotta ravioli and it was great. I took some Parmesan truffle fries from some others and with the ravioli sauce *chef’s kiss* We then left for money exchange/ATM to grab cash. Next was hotel for relaxation before dinner. It had a pool so some had a dip; I had a nap.

We ate at 6. That was the restaurant name. We actually ate at 9pm. That’s the regular time to eat dinner here, late at night. I got a royal calzone (egg, bacon, cheese, basil?) which came with a salad. For dessert I had lemon sherbet with vodka. I didn’t leave until 12am. I was exhausted.

Monday was the excursion day. It was advertised as a cooking class, but it was so much more. We drove out to what felt like the middle of nowhere. We pulled up to an ochre building with a giant camel out front. We walked through the doors, down a small hall, into a beautiful courtyard. It was huge. It had all sorts of artsy statues and murals. There was a pool in the middle that we later found out was the shape of Fatima’s hand.

We were ushered into a hallway to get ready to cook. We put on aprons and they tied scarves around our heads. We of course had a cup of mint tea before we started. So good! The group went into this room with five stations in a semicircle. They grouped us and named us by cities. Our group was Rabat (the capital). It was Nadine, Jessica, Thalia, and me. We prepared chicken in a traditional tagine, a cone shaped lid on a plate, both made of clay. We chopped potatoes that were boiled, cut tomatoes, peppers, and cilantro for a salad; and a few of us helped knead bread. They even asked if I could work for them!! 😅 after the food was all done, we relaxed outside with a non-alcoholic mojito. Many wandered around for pictures with the art.

The group went to mini-Morocco: a collections of rooms displaying cities of Morocco. We learned about the Berber language, old “banks”, why the doors have a door within a door, history, and more. We saw a room full of doors, showing the intricacies and decorations. We enjoyed the tiles and displays. We even had a photo opportunity in an upside down room! It was so fun.

Finally it was time to eat. They had tables set for us. Platters with the tomato salad and potatoes were brought out. We munched on olives and bread. They brought out jars with our chicken. They shook the jar and poured it onto a bowl. It was so tender and fell off the bone. It was great company and a good bonding experience. 

Jafar was our instructor and guide and he made us feel at home. He danced with us, drank with us, and made us laugh. I would go back as a relaxation time and swim in the pool and eat food someone else had cooked. Before we left, they served us spiced coffee and I enjoyed it! I don’t usually like coffee, but I’d drink that again. 

We got back to the hotel exhausted. Half of us took off to see the Majorelle Garden. I took a nap. Buuuuuut it was only an hour and then I took a taxi with 3 others to the square. We saw a snake charmer and held snakes and got great photos. We were tourists and bought magnets, postcards, and coin pouches (that had camels with fezes on). We wandered the market, fending off sellers at every turn. Several of my tour mates were called names. Not bad in itself, but definitely an odd experience.

We returned to the hotel and got ready for dinner. It was Isi’s (my roommate) birthday and we ate dinner at Azar, an expensive place with a three course dinner and entertainment I.e. belly dancers. Food was phenomenal. We got there around 9 and left after midnight. That’s how most of our dinners have been like. That was our last night in Marrakesh