Saturday
The day was upon us. The most awaited part of the trip. “Don’t buy that here, wait until we’re in Fes! All the Moroccan goods are made in Fes. We’ll have time to shop in Fes.” Fes is the oldest city in Morocco. It’s 1000 years older than the United States. The neighborhoods are identified by what CENTURY they were built in.
We woke up early in the morning to go and see a panorama of Fes. (Fes is the city; fez is the hat.) it was big and compact. Such a different concept coming from the spread out cities of the States. We immediately drove to a ceramics place. We saw the whole process from mud to table (they legitimately made table tops). The mud had cat prints in it. The artists there start as apprentices and move up in this field. We saw amazing creations: mezuzahs, plates, bowls, tables, and so many fountains. They make ceramics and pottery along with tiles to create mosaics. And the style was so colorful and fun. We had fun in the store at the end. We left and entered the actual city. We wound through narrow streets six inches wider than me. We darted through markets and squeezed to the side when donkeys passed. Different areas had different markets: we passed produce and meat (including shark), clothing, technology, cooking ware, and more. We stopped and looked at mosques and a religious school. We looked at the courtyard and old dormitories. We gazed at the details in the wood and tiles.
Next we went to a jeweler. Silver is mined in Morocco along with other precious gems. He showed us necklaces and earrings. There were mirrors all around, plus some daggers, a cane, teapots, and other decor. It was a two floor shop, but very crowded. I bought my items and tried to stay out of the way. It was hard with people in front of me and breakable things behind me. I do have a reputation of being clumsy. It didn’t help when a SECOND group joined us in the shop. I honestly started having a minor panic attack. Ad asked us how we were doing with thumbs up; I put mine to the side. He grabbed my arm and we weaved through the shop to the entrance. We stood outside for me to calm and catch my breath. He explained that they’re used to being on top of each other, but he understands that in America we’re so spread out. Having someone in our personal space is uncomfortable. He took a smoke break while I drank water and dried my tears. Soon, everyone else was done and we set off for lunch. A Fes-specific food is pastilla. It’s like a pot pie, but phyllo dough. Savory on the inside with chicken and vegetables and sweet on the outside with cinnamon and powdered sugar. Oh we ALL loved that. It was so filling along with the appetizers. I’m hungry just thinking about it. It was a great break before we continued on.
We weaved through the city and made our way to a ruggery. Or a place where they make rugs. I don’t really know what to call that. They showed us different designs and styles. Traditional vs modern. They told us about the craft and how long they take. It’s an arduous process, but a beautiful result. I ended up buying two: a runner for my kitchen and one for my entryway. We joked that it was “Say Yes to the Rug” with all my friends with me in the alcove helping me choose. They packaged them up tight and delivered them to the bus. Next, was a weaving place where they made cloth and fabrics. I learned that they use agave silk in their cloth. We watched a man work at the loom. We wandered and bought scarves, tried on fezes, and some even bought kaftans. It was a beautiful store (Ad checked on me here as well. I was fading again. He took me into an alcove outside where I was safe to sit and wait for the group.) We wove our way through the streets, past children trying to sell us wallets or figurines, men selling shoes, and regular beggars. We arrived at the tannery, our last stop. Oh how that place SMELLED. They gave us a mint sprig as we walked in and I wondered why. We walked through rooms where jackets and floor poofs were, but he led us to the top. There the smell was the strongest. We could see the open vats next door. Half were white, full of pigeon poop we soon learned. The others had dye for different colors and water and other processing steps. Interesting, but stinky. Others wandered, looking at wares, but I was exhausted. Found my friend Sarah falling in love with a green leather jacket. Damn, she looked great. We had to bargain down the jacket and he threw in a pair of shoes. Those became mine! I paid her do she didn’t feel as guilty about the jacket. It was a great purchase and something that will last. My shoes are now my go to slip-ons when I leave the house. Not originally my style, but I’m warming up to them.
We left the city and headed to a traditional hammam. We were close before, but we got a whole lot closer after this experience. It was a spa with a sauna, a cold tub, washing of hair, scrubbing with sand, and a massage. It felt amazing. I was comfortable during the whole time, but many of the other women weren’t. We were completely undressed. It was difficult to communicate to the staff because I did not speak French and they did not speak English. I almost fell asleep on the massage table. It was chaotic with over 20 women and a dozen employees, but we all were treated. I felt so good. We went back to the hotel and those of us who were skipping the night out stayed in and ordered room service. That was the first time I’ve ever ordered room service. I got a 4 cheese pizza and an Oreo milkshake. The pizza reminded me of skating rink pizza, just with better cheese. The milkshake was more liquidy and tasted like banana. To avoid that, I ended up chugging it. Both were $11. Where else can you get that cheap of room service?
Sunday- the last day
On our way out of Fes, we stopped at the royal palace of Fes. There they have infamous seven doors, each decorated slightly differently. We left Fes and headed for the coast. We made a very American stop: McDonald’s! Ad wanted us to experience their version, how they do it. I got a tasty chicken sandwich, fries, and a coke. The sandwich was so big. The fries weren’t as salty. Or as crispy. They also offered steak fries, jalapeño poppers, and Gouda bites. The chicken nuggets were full on real chicken! It was an experience. Definitely different than what we had eaten all week (almost was a preparation for the more processed foods back here in the States). We drove through Rabat, the capital, and saw the soon-to-be tallest tower in Morocco. We went to the king’s palace there, saw some government buildings. The city is mostly government centered; not a lot for tourists to do.
Last stop: Casablanca! We first stopped at a fountain to wander and take pictures with a giant, colorful sign. There was a rip-off Mickey Mouse mascot taking pictures with kids. We walked from there to a store for us to buy our final souvenirs. Some went across the street for the last coffee. Our only altercation happened that day. A local crazy person wouldn’t leave our group alone. At one point, he blocked our way to the bus. The bus driver was no where to be found. Locals tried walking him away, but he would return a few minutes later. He even grabbed onto one of our lady’s sweater. It was a bit nerve wracking. We got to the hotel and decompressed. It was time to figure out how to repack everything. I had a rolling suitcase, carry on bag, my rugs, and my medical bag. How could I fit everything in its respective place? We still had our goodbye dinner as well.
Of course, you can’t end your time in Casablanca without a reference to the movie. We ate dinner at Rick’s Cafe. The decor was very 40s. There was an area for a band downstairs. Waiters were in vests and fezes. And we had a several course meal. We also met Ad’s wife! She was so pretty; they’re a good looking couple. The menu is in my album on Facebook. It was yummy, refreshing, and an all around good time. We left and went to the mosque, the only one that allows anyone in. It was too late, so we couldn’t go inside, but we took pictures outside. We were there for the last prayer of the night. We took our last group picture and I had some with my roomie, Isi. We got back to the hotel and hugged and tipped our driver Mohcine and Adnane. A few tears were shed. We went up to our rooms, where we packed, napped, played games, or spent the last of our time together.
We got on the bus at 3:15 am. Our flight to Paris (which most of us were on) left at 7:30am. From there we split into our respective home flights. Six of us were on the Chicago flight. I slept maybe 4 hours. We got down and I had an hour to get through customs, go to another terminal, go through security, and make my flight. I was one of the last three on. I wouldn’t have made it if I didn’t skip the customs line to catch up with the others who had one more flight. Nor would I have caught it if I stopped to pick up my checked bags to recheck them. I wanted to get home. I got back at 7:45ish, reported missing bags, and went home. 24 hours. 4 airports. 4 time zones (that I was on the ground). 4 hours of sleep. Finally home.
Present: 30 Sept
It’s been 11 days since we’ve been separated. Our group chat stays active on a daily basis. First because of Covid testing, but now with future travels together. Out of the 29 of us, 17 have signed up for Egypt 2024. Yalla!
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