Saturday, February 10, 2024

If only I had my papyrus





 Today we woke up on our cruise. We had landed at Kom Ombo! Breakfast was pastries, sausage, and tea. We left the cruise at 7am. Having never been on a cruise before, they gave us a card for counting purposes. We passed through a market before arriving at the temple.

Kom Ombo is dedicated to Horus and Sobek. It was split into two, one half for each god. We got to see the story of Horus again. We read the cartouche of Cleopatra. Colors were still present at the top of the temple! We learned about the whispering rooms, where people would come to pray and priests would hide in the wall and answer as the god. We saw hieroglyphs depicting surgical instruments. There was an area that Heba described how they mummified crocodiles there! The museum afterwards had about a dozen mummified crocs of different sizes! Even eggs! Such a cool place and I’d love to see it again from a different TD’s point of view. We stopped by the market where I haggled (well Heba did) for a galabeya. It’s blue with long sleeves. There’s embroidery on the front of sunflowers  I paid $15 for it. Wearing it later, I found out one sleeve is smaller/tighter than the other. I’ll have to remedy that at home .

We spent the rest of the day on the boat. I napped in the morning because it was too windy up top. We had lunch. After lunch the boat stopped for some to get off and explore. I was on the top, listening to an audiobook and playing sudoku. I took some videos and pictures of us cruising the Nile. Sarah and I reenacted the Titanic pose; she made a TikTok with the music! I drank some wine and had them figure out a mojito. Whoops. I thought that would’ve been an easy drink. Both were $15 total.

I napped before dinner, which I had chicken, fish, eggplant, and cous cous. It was Meg’s birthday so we sang and ate cake. It was a fun experience. After dinner, we headed up to the lounge for the galabeya party. We danced with the crew, conga style then in a circle. There was a raffle. Since Sarah wasn’t there, I DANCED for her prize: a cheap Egypt wallet with a laminated calendar inside with Jesus on it. We laughed so hard when I found that. We took a group picture and danced some more. There was a photographer who took our pictures individually and as a couple.

Tomorrow is the big day: The Valley of the Kings!


Friday, February 9, 2024

What a boat-iful day!






Omg this morning was so nice. I was so well rested. I woke up after 8 hours of sleep to work on school. I sat on the balcony overlooking the entrance to the hotel, Aswan, and the Nile in the distance. What a sight. Breakfast was good, consisting of pastries, hibiscus tea, chicken sausage, fava beans, and falafel. Ate on the balcony by the pool and the temperature was great.

We left for the Nubian village on a ferry, the same type of boat we used the day before. We enjoyed some history of the area by Heba before we could enjoy the boat ride, taking videos and pictures. We saw cows and a donkey on the bank, ducks and gulls, and peaceful sites on our journey.

We arrived at the Nubian village and made our way to the primary school. They have Friday and Saturday off, so we didn’t get to see children (to Heba’s disappointment). We went into Mr. Wael’s class where he taught us the alphabet in Arabic, including the song (the last 3 symbols sound like HAIR WOW FAIR). We also learned numbers in Arabic AND Nubian. The irony of most of the world using Arabian numbers, and Arabic speaking countries using Indian numbers. 1 looks the same, 4 is a backwards 3, 5 is 0, 6 is 7,  7 is V, and 0 is • Heba wrote our names in Arabic and then we could donate to Mr. Wael to help support his classroom. The school was super colorful, with blues, reds, and yellows all around. On the second floor we could see, Mickey, Tom, and Jerry painted on the wall. The courtyard is the play yard for the kids.

Next we went to this house where they hosted us with tea and snacks. People could get henna and I ended up with braided thread in my hair. The house also was colorful, with the walls painted blue and colorful woven art on the walls. We were allowed to look around and see what the rooms were like. The rooms had thatched ceilings to have air flow, but also a few ceiling fans (I’m assuming for guests). At one point I wandered outside and saw Diane taking pictures with strangers. I mouthed if she was ok and she was smiling uncomfortably. Unfortunately that brought the guy’s attention to ME so I joined the picture with the son and his wife and Diane. Then the older gentleman took a selfie with me. I learned the younger man’s name was Romi. We danced in a circle while the hosts played music. It definitely reminded me of us dancing that night in the Moroccan Sahara desert. 

Next we went through the market to head to the boat. I bought a hot pad that was orange and blue, a basket for Deborah, and a keychain from a little boy for Robin. I did buy a Nubian dress for $60. I told Heba and she said I was cheated. We went back and after arguing, she ended up handing him the dress back and getting my money back. I now know not to spend more than $20, but preferred $15 on these dresses. I hope to buy one to wear to Saturday’s dinner, but if not, I’ll wear a Tunisian dress.

We then took the ferry to our cruise, that we’d be riding for the next 3 nights. We went down to the first floor to have lunch. It was a buffet. I ate rice, beef shawarma, fish, veal, olives, broccoli salad, cauliflower salad, potatoes, and dessert. We then went upstairs to rest/unpack until we met up to go for our Felucca sailboat ride.

That boat looked similar to our ferry beside that it had a giant sail. We enjoyed our trip up the river. It was a nice, peaceful ride with no destination. We linked up to a motor boat for a few minutes to get us going. Children on paddle boards would hold onto the boat and sing to us. It was more annoying than cute; what did they want from us? Then was the photo shoot. We lined up to take pictures with the sail, with the sunset and shore in the background. Damn, we looked good. Jessie and I got deep on the way back to the cruise. Yay for trauma bonding. Damn. It’ll be 20 years since Ivan this year. 

We got on the cruise, got the itinerary for tomorrow, and had food. It was a buffet and I had breaded chicken, fish in lemon sauce, moussaka, and dessert. Both times I had cubed mousse: strawberry and caramel, cheesecake or a tart, and something small and chocolate.

Im writing this the next morning because I started to work on school, but I downloaded the documents I need to read and take notes. I did for a bit, but I was sleepy and we leave the boat in 1.5 hours. Jessie’s 5am alarm woke me up. I turned it off and 25 minutes later another went off. I let it for a few minutes before I poked her to get it.

So yesterday we were on 3 different boats; how often does that happen?

Thursday, February 8, 2024

Gods, glass, and good times

 Today we woke up at 2am to get on a plane and fly south. Our flight was at 6am out of CAI and with 34 people and checked bags, it was going to take some time. We had boxed breakfast (with questionable meat sandwich) at the hotel. You have to go through two different security checks: once immediately at the door, the other before our gate. Jessie was kind and bought us baklava while waiting. I fell asleep on the plane, trying to rest one last time before our busy day. 

We landed an hour and a half later. Egypt air has really comfy seats. We walked in on a jet bridge, but walked off downstairs outside. We bussed to the terminal, picked up our luggage and got on the bus. We drove to the docks to take our first boat ride of the trip. 

We got on a ferry to the Temple of Philae. It was big and beautiful, with tall carvings thousands of years old. We learned which direction to read hieroglyphs. We learned more stories of gods and goddesses like Isis, Osiris, Horus, and Hathor. It was sad to see the remnants where people scratched or tried to remove the symbols off the walls. There was graffiti from the 19th century and Byzantine crosses. At one point in time, people could worship Christ in a church and Isis in the temple and keep peace. I saw the temple of Augustus in the back. I was exhausted and hit a wall so when we broke for pictures and shopping, I went and sat down. We had been up for almost 9 hours by that time. 

We returned the same way we came and went to a perfumery. We had some lunch (bread/pita filled with falafel, potatoes, eggplant, or fava (beans?) I ate four halves. We got to smell lots of scents. They also had beautiful bottles for sale made out of blown glass. Candice helped make a camel and brought it home. I bought 50mL of Hathor scent for $72 I just need to dilute it 9:1 with alcohol to make perfume. 

Finally we got back to the hotel to rest. Some had a party by the pool. I napped. Again. They have us a welcome drink that tasted so bad. Like apple cider vinegar gone wrong. We went to dinner at 6. Got on a ferry at the same dock to take us to a Nubian restaurant across from the temple. We saw their light show and could occasionally hear music. We ate rice, bread, vegetables 2 different ways, and protein. I got sea bass that was great. Dessert was a custard. Sarah was goofy and brought over 4 so we could recreate last night’s photo with me and 7 desserts. This time it was 8. I wonder if this will be my schtick.

Time for sleep. I’m going to wake up early to work on Codex; the world doesn’t stop when you’re on vacation

Wednesday, February 7, 2024

I’m sphinxing about Egypt

 Today was the first official day of the Egypt trip. I roomed with Anne Marie in Giza; we didn’t get here until 1 am. We had boxed dinners waiting for us: 2 cheese sandwiches, apple and banana, olives, and a coke. The cheese sandwiches were like Olive Garden breadsticks cut in half with a few slices of cheese. We were hoping for extra pizza, but we were tired and couldn’t deal finding the room and fighting for a slice.

We had breakfast where all of us Morocco crew reunited. It got loud and joyful. So many hugs. I finally saw Jessie for the first time in forever (or 6 years). She scarfed some food down and we got on the bus. Heba introduced herself and I fell in love with her motherly nature. We drove to the pyramids while she told us about the history. It was really interesting, but too long (and too long since) to write everything down.

The pyramids were visible from our hotel! We pulled up and gathered around. All but 5 of us chose to go inside the pyramid. They crouched down stairs, went into an antechamber, more stairs, and a final room. Then they took the same way out. I’m tall and not doing that. Also there’s nothing there. No hieroglyphs. No sarcophagus. It’s empty. And hot and musty. Doesn’t seem enjoyable. 

We all took a group picture before they split off. Non pyramid crew took pictures with the stones, showing off their size. We walked around the entire pyramid, taking it all in. Peddlers tried to sell us things and get us to ride camels but LELELELELELE. (No) we got back on the bus with everyone and went higher up to see the smaller pyramids. They’re amazing in person. The bigger two have the same angles, down to the minutes. Just copy and paste.

Once at the top, a group went on a camel ride to take pictures on them in front of the pyramid. I was the no camel group. I rode in the Sahara in Morocco for a lot longer. So instead we took pictures “holding” the pyramids. They were fun! When everyone got back, we jumped on the bus for the Sphinx. 

The Sphinx is down in a valley; you can’t see it from the pyramids but you can see the pyramids from the Sphinx. We learned about the mummification temple right before we went to see it. How it’s made of alabaster floors, granite outer walls, and limestone inner walls. We learned more details of the process that we might have forgotten. Finally we went through and saw the mighty Sphinx! It met my expectations; some thought it was going to be smaller, some bigger. I imagined it exactly that size. We took pictures with it, some capturing the pyramids in the background. I became the “kissing” photographer because I could squat in the right position and get pictures of people kissing the Sphinx. I did that for 3 people, including a stranger. My knees were not happy. 

We stopped by a market for snacks on the way to the papyrus institute. I got wafers, date newton (like fig newtons) and some canned pineapple drink with real chunks. The guy tried and succeeded to overcharge me, but our guard saw him doing that and stopped him. I had given the cashier 2 50lb notes for my snacks. The guard opened my bag, argued with the cashier, took one 50 back for me, and pushed me out of the market. I was so grateful. The conversion rate at this time is 30/1. 30 e£ to $1

We went to the papyrus store and learned about the plant and how the papyrus is made. It takes weeks to make a sheet. It rolls up without cracking. It’s waterproof. The outer layer was used to make shoes and even Moses’ basket. They showed us this cool art that had glow in the dark art, some completely different than what was seen in normal light! They let us loose in the store. I wandered around looking at different art. I purposely have e£ so I don’t spend more money like in Morocco. Jo even found me to keep me accountable. In the end, I haggled and got a small map of Egypt (that may glow in the dark. I don’t remember) and two book marks with names in hieroglyphs on it. All together 1500. I charged my card (because the big bills were on the bus) and I got a text that it cost me $48.66! The two bookmarks are for me and Nona. I win at gifts. Again. 

Then we came back to the hotel to nap. We went to our welcome dinner and had so much good food. Baba ganoush, Cole slaw, beans, beets (which I didn’t eat), potatoes, and pita bread. Then we received meatballs, fries (pomme frites), and stuffed grape leaves. Then our actual food came and it was half a chicken. It was cooked over an open fire and was so good!! For dessert we had milk pudding. It was like warm rice pudding without the rice and with some broil on top. I got a silly picture with everyone’s bowl from our side of the table since I had finished mine and was going to finish Jessie’s and Sarah’s. We made a schtick for me to have EVERYONE’s bowl in front of me. 

Now I’m in bed, packed for tomorrow because we leave at 3am for the airport. Time for some sleep. Maybe tomorrow I’ll catch up on my Tuesday Frankfurt journey. 

Friday, September 30, 2022

The Beginning of a Beautiful Friendship.

Saturday

The day was upon us. The most awaited part of the trip. “Don’t buy that here, wait until we’re in Fes! All the Moroccan goods are made in Fes. We’ll have time to shop in Fes.” Fes is the oldest city in Morocco. It’s 1000 years older than the United States. The neighborhoods are identified by what CENTURY they were built in. 

We woke up early in the morning to go and see a panorama of Fes. (Fes is the city; fez is the hat.) it was big and compact. Such a different concept coming from the spread out cities of the States. We immediately drove to a ceramics place. We saw the whole process from mud to table (they legitimately made table tops). The mud had cat prints in it. The artists there start as apprentices and move up in this field. We saw amazing creations: mezuzahs, plates, bowls, tables, and so many fountains. They make ceramics and pottery along with tiles to create mosaics. And the style was so colorful and fun. We had fun in the store at the end. We left and entered the actual city. We wound through narrow streets six inches wider than me. We darted through markets and squeezed to the side when donkeys passed. Different areas had different markets: we passed produce and meat (including shark), clothing, technology, cooking ware, and more. We stopped and looked at mosques and a religious school. We looked at the courtyard and old dormitories. We gazed at the details in the wood and tiles. 

Next we went to a jeweler. Silver is mined in Morocco along with other precious gems. He showed us necklaces and earrings. There were mirrors all around, plus some daggers, a cane, teapots, and other decor. It was a two floor shop, but very crowded. I bought my items and tried to stay out of the way. It was hard with people in front of me and breakable things behind me. I do have a reputation of being clumsy. It didn’t help when a SECOND group joined us in the shop. I honestly started having a minor panic attack. Ad asked us how we were doing with thumbs up; I put mine to the side. He grabbed my arm and we weaved through the shop to the entrance. We stood outside for me to calm and catch my breath. He explained that they’re used to being on top of each other, but he understands that in America we’re so spread out. Having someone in our personal space is uncomfortable. He took a smoke break while I drank water and dried my tears. Soon, everyone else was done and we set off for lunch. A Fes-specific food is pastilla. It’s like a pot pie, but phyllo dough. Savory on the inside with chicken and vegetables and sweet on the outside with cinnamon and powdered sugar. Oh we ALL loved that. It was so filling along with the appetizers. I’m hungry just thinking about it. It was a great break before we continued on. 

We weaved through the city and made our way to a ruggery. Or a place where they make rugs. I don’t really know what to call that. They showed us different designs and styles. Traditional vs modern. They told us about the craft and how long they take. It’s an arduous process, but a beautiful result. I ended up buying two: a runner for my kitchen and one for my entryway. We joked that it was “Say Yes to the Rug” with all my friends with me in the alcove helping me choose. They packaged them up tight and delivered them to the bus. Next, was a weaving place where they made cloth and fabrics. I learned that they use agave silk in their cloth. We watched a man work at the loom. We wandered and bought scarves, tried on fezes, and some even bought kaftans. It was a beautiful store (Ad checked on me here as well. I was fading again. He took me into an alcove outside where I was safe to sit and wait for the group.) We wove our way through the streets, past children trying to sell us wallets or figurines, men selling shoes, and regular beggars. We arrived at the tannery, our last stop. Oh how that place SMELLED. They gave us a mint sprig as we walked in and I wondered why. We walked through rooms where jackets and floor poofs were, but he led us to the top. There the smell was the strongest. We could see the open vats next door. Half were white, full of pigeon poop we soon learned. The others had dye for different colors and water and other processing steps. Interesting, but stinky. Others wandered, looking at wares, but I was exhausted. Found my friend Sarah falling in love with a green leather jacket. Damn, she looked great. We had to bargain down the jacket and he threw in a pair of shoes. Those became mine! I paid her do she didn’t feel as guilty about the jacket. It was a great purchase and something that will last. My shoes are now my go to slip-ons when I leave the house. Not originally my style, but I’m warming up to them.

We left the city and headed to a traditional hammam. We were close before, but we got a whole lot closer after this experience. It was a spa with a sauna, a cold tub, washing of hair, scrubbing with sand, and a massage. It felt amazing. I was comfortable during the whole time, but many of the other women weren’t. We were completely undressed. It was difficult to communicate to the staff because I did not speak French and they did not speak English. I almost fell asleep on the massage table. It was chaotic with over 20 women and a dozen employees, but we all were treated. I felt so good. We went back to the hotel and those of us who were skipping the night out stayed in and ordered room service. That was the first time I’ve ever ordered room service. I got a 4 cheese pizza and an Oreo milkshake. The pizza reminded me of skating rink pizza, just with better cheese. The milkshake was more liquidy and tasted like banana. To avoid that, I ended up chugging it. Both were $11. Where else can you get that cheap of room service?

Sunday- the last day

On our way out of Fes, we stopped at the royal palace of Fes. There they have infamous seven doors, each decorated slightly differently. We left Fes and headed for the coast. We made a very American stop: McDonald’s! Ad wanted us to experience their version, how they do it. I got a tasty chicken sandwich, fries, and a coke. The sandwich was so big. The fries weren’t as salty. Or as crispy. They also offered steak fries, jalapeƱo poppers, and Gouda bites. The chicken nuggets were full on real chicken! It was an experience. Definitely different than what we had eaten all week (almost was a preparation for the more processed foods back here in the States). We drove through Rabat, the capital, and saw the soon-to-be tallest tower in Morocco. We went to the king’s palace there, saw some government buildings. The city is mostly government centered; not a lot for tourists to do.

Last stop: Casablanca! We first stopped at a fountain to wander and take pictures with a giant, colorful sign. There was a rip-off Mickey Mouse mascot taking pictures with kids. We walked from there to a store for us to buy our final souvenirs. Some went across the street for the last coffee. Our only altercation happened that day. A local crazy person wouldn’t leave our group alone. At one point, he blocked our way to the bus. The bus driver was no where to be found. Locals tried walking him away, but he would return a few minutes later. He even grabbed onto one of our lady’s sweater. It was a bit nerve wracking. We got to the hotel and decompressed. It was time to figure out how to repack everything. I had a rolling suitcase, carry on bag, my rugs, and my medical bag. How could I fit everything in its respective place? We still had our goodbye dinner as well.

Of course, you can’t end your time in Casablanca without a reference to the movie. We ate dinner at Rick’s Cafe. The decor was very 40s. There was an area for a band downstairs. Waiters were in vests and fezes. And we had a several course meal. We also met Ad’s wife! She was so pretty; they’re a good looking couple. The menu is in my album on Facebook. It was yummy, refreshing, and an all around good time. We left and went to the mosque, the only one that allows anyone in. It was too late, so we couldn’t go inside, but we took pictures outside. We were there for the last prayer of the night. We took our last group picture and I had some with my roomie, Isi. We got back to the hotel and hugged and tipped our driver Mohcine and Adnane. A few tears were shed. We went up to our rooms, where we packed, napped, played games, or spent the last of our time together.

We got on the bus at 3:15 am. Our flight to Paris (which most of us were on) left at 7:30am. From there we split into our respective home flights. Six of us were on the Chicago flight. I slept maybe 4 hours. We got down and I had an hour to get through customs, go to another terminal, go through security, and make my flight. I was one of the last three on. I wouldn’t have made it if I didn’t skip the customs line to catch up with the others who had one more flight. Nor would I have caught it if I stopped to pick up my checked bags to recheck them. I wanted to get home. I got back at 7:45ish, reported missing bags, and went home. 24 hours. 4 airports. 4 time zones (that I was on the ground). 4 hours of sleep. Finally home.

Present: 30 Sept

It’s been 11 days since we’ve been separated. Our group chat stays active on a daily basis. First because of Covid testing, but now with future travels together. Out of the 29 of us, 17 have signed up for Egypt 2024. Yalla!

Sunday, September 18, 2022

Deserts, Devonians, and Dromedaries

Thursday was my favorite day of the trip. We woke up and went to see fossils (dundundun *Phineas and Ferb reference)! It was so cool to hear about how the desert used to be underwater. There are cephalopod and fish and jellyfish fossils all over the Erfoud area. We saw how they clean the pieces, how they break them open, and sometimes how they cut partitions to see what the inside looks like. Most of these pieces are in marble, so they showed us fixtures that they make with this material: tables, sinks, and art. They gave us 50% off their store and we went crazy. I was very happy to buy some dishes (not for eating) and decorations made with these fossils.

Spending all that time on the bus we had a DJ playing requests. Rock the Kashbah and Africa were givens. Bohemian Rhapsody and Don’t Stop Me Now by Queen were hits. So were Super Troopers and Mama Mia by ABBA. Other singalongs were Unwritten, Pocketful of Sunshine, Misery Business, Best Damn Thing, I Will Survive, and Dreams. The back of the bus had a great time. 

We drove to Rissani and saw the Ksar El Fida. It used to be a palace. We stopped at a desert oasis for pictures. Children were getting out of school and stopped us. They stood with their bikes watching us be silly and then board the bus. It was an interesting reverse tourism experience. We came back to the hotel for lunch and a rest.

We had to rest up for the next experiences. Later afternoon our group left in SUVs to go to the desert. We joked we were in a government caravan. We soon went off road and were racing around and on dunes. We even traveled 90 mph. Our car felt more like an amusement ride than a car. A few times my butt caught air I.e. I lifted off the car seat. Don’t worry; we were all wearing seatbelts. We twisted and turned and we’re thrown against each other. Our car was full of giggles. Meg, Maria, Nadine, and I were in the same car. The driver even put on a playlist called Music for Americans, which included pop songs from the past decade. He didn’t speak English.

We first stopped at a nomad’s tent. This lifestyle is going out because of the modern world. No one is willing to buy things from people that take camels or donkeys to travel. They’d rather have it delivered by car or plane. More and more children leave and live permanently in houses. We looked around their tent and shacks. We were invited inside the big tent for tea. They had such warm hospitality. We were grateful for the experience. 

Next desert travel was to see musicians. These played on traditional Berber instruments and sang old songs. We drank tea and danced to the music. We gave them coins and quickly left for our next appointment. Thirty minutes before sunset, we met them: the 30 camels to take us into the Sahara. We each had our own dromedary. I was paired with Nadine. We rode up several dunes with our guide. He stopped often and took pictures with our phones of us and the camels. We settled our camels with others and climbed what felt like a GIANT dune and got close to our group. Nadine and I were huffing at the top. I could only whisper because I was parched. We watched the sunset. More pictures and videos were taken. We got back to the camels and bought tiny jars and filled them with the Sahara. We rode back to our cars. They were parked at a building with a courtyard. There was a bonfire and music (and of course, mint tea). I started dancing and had so much fun. The other Sarah joined the musicians on a drum. More people joined in on the dancing and it was so much fun. We made one last stop on the way home. In the middle of the desert, in the darkness of night, we saw millions of stars. The Big Dipper was huge and near the horizon. We saw Jupiter as well. It was an amazing time feeling so big and so small at the same time.

Now for some real talk. People are human. Humans get sick. Some humans are sick/disabled all the time. These things suck more when you’re in a foreign country, ESPECIALLY when you don’t speak the language(s) spoken there. Some women (~10) got their period on the trip. I got a cold/allergies with each day having a different symptom: sore throat, excess mucus/sneezing, congestion, coughing. Not fun and I felt like I was disturbing people. As you know, I also have mental problems. I had an anxiety attack Thursday night. I was overstimulated and needed to be by myself and I couldn’t. It was bottling up and I was close to exploding. I quickly ate dinner and then excused myself. I started crying on my way to my room and just cried for five minutes getting out all the feelings. It was a long, hot day and I was over it. I could hear a party going on outside. It was Tina and Mochine’s birthday. They had a band, cake, and dancing. I heard the next day that people jumped in the pool. It sounded like fun. But I was inside writing my previous post, enjoying my alone time. I was truly happy for my friends that night and I didn’t have FOMO. That party wasn’t right for me. Spoiler alert: I had an attack in Fes as well, but a small one. Ad helped me there. I was otherwise enjoying myself and the company of fellow travelers.


Friday

We drove to Fes with small stops along the way. We started with a camel farm. There were three mothers and three babies. I got to drink camel’s milk! I liked it more than cow’s milk. Sarah found a drum and played while people took pictures of the farm. We drove through Midelt where apples grow. They have a red apple on the west side and a green apple on the east side. We stopped a a place Ad called Little Switzerland. The buildings were definitely European and it has one of the first ski lifts ever. At lunch I had a Pepsi with an old pop top. I had never seen one before in person. I ate pasta carbonara, but two people at my table had camel tajine. They said it was delicious and comparable to pot roast. 

We drove through the Atlas Mountains and started seeing cedar trees. Some of these trees had monkeys! We made a stop to see Macaques. Ad threw fruit near them. There was a decorated Berber horse and Isi rode it like a Queen. As we got closer to Fes, the land reminded me of Italy. How the houses looked, how the fields were lined. The drastic comparison from the day before of the orange Sahara sand. We got to Hotel Escale and checked in. The restaurant was on the roof. We had a buffet. ISI’s and my room was a corner room with a balcony. It was niiiiice. 

Side story: Slowly our showers got their walls back. Only one shower had a curtain. The rest have been partially walled off and you’re lucky if there’s a lip keeping the water in. Many bathrooms have been soaked after we showered. These also had removable heads which aren’t as commonly used in the US, or if people have them, they don’t remove them as much. If I hadn’t locked the door, people would’ve walked into the bathroom and immediately seen me in the shower. The following day was they hyped up day: our day in Fes. 

Happy birthday to me

This was to be posted on September 10. Due to internet/data issues, it’s just now being posted.


 I have been 28 for a day and what an adventure it has been. I flew last night from Detroit to Paris. I got three hours of sleep. After a two hour layover flew from there to Marrakech (Mare-uh-kesh). 1.5 hours of sleep. Landed and met up with 10 other travelers on my flight. We got through customs, met up with our tour director Ad (Adnane), and got to the hotel. We debriefed the schedule for the night, freshened up, and left the hotel.

Our poor first bus driver had a death in the family so we had to get a replacement. We didn’t get to dinner until 45 minutes after we were supposed to. We had a blood orange drink on the rooftop and looked at a market. We went downstairs in a courtyard and had our meal. The other Sarah and I got a bottle of wine. For someone who doesn’t like wine, I drank half the bottle. I was thirsty! We got 3L of water to split between 7 people. I sat with Sarah, Ken, Krystal, Amber, Kylie, and Shailja. We had salads for a first course: tomato (pico de gallo), aubergine, zucchini, cucumbers (nope), potatoes, and tomatoes with sweet peppers. We had a whole discussion how cucumbers are melons but aren’t considered fruits. How physically they look like zucchini, but aren’t in the same family (lagomorphs?) We had two big dishes of meat: tender beef with plums and almonds and chicken with olives and lemons. The lemons were so tart and mistaken for olives with the vinegary flavor. And of course bread. We had oranges and dates, pancakes with sweet syrup, and biscuits/cookies for dessert. One table gave me some white wine (which is what Sarah and I wanted in the first place). We left full and happy. 

We then wandered/followed our guide through the busy market. It was almost 11pm and so full of people and foods and things and music. It was overwhelming, but interesting. We’ll see the difference of night and day tomorrow. 

It’s time to sleep. I’m rooming with Ighwiyisi. I think she goes by Yisi. I’ll get the spelling tomorrow. We gratefully are starting later (10am) and are having a day to learn all about Marra

If only I had my papyrus

 Today we woke up on our cruise. We had landed at Kom Ombo! Breakfast was pastries, sausage, and tea. We left the cruise at 7am. Having neve...